What happens when you send an Aussie reporter who has never skied before and hates the cold on a ski trip to Colorado?
She has the absolute time of her life.
Firmly back on Aussie soil weeks later I catch myself goofily smiling while daydreaming about Beaver Creek and Breckenridge, two places that make you feel like you are the main character in a Hallmark Christmas movie … in March.
If it’s not the snow falling as you walk through the main street where almost every tree is covered in fairy lights, it has got to be the people that give it the magical feel. While the actual temperature is freezing, I found the people exceptionally warm.
A place where you could end up spending the afternoon with the chatty stranger you sat next to on the short flight into Vail. A place where an older couple may make a joke walking past your restaurant table, end up chatting for half an hour and then offer you a ride to your next destination. A place where two different people only 24 hours apart just might tell you a story about how they went to see a platypus on a farm in Tasmania (this was almost confirmation there was some kind of magic going on). A place where a fellow skier on the plane out may give you their book to read for your next leg home to Australia.
On my short five-day trip, I can confirm all those events took place.
Of the two ski resorts, Beaver Creek has the more luxurious feel.
There is an ice rink in the centre of the village, a day spa, fire spits to sit around and have a drink in the afternoon following a big day on the slopes, and even a fancy restaurant on the mountain only accessible by a snowcat-pulled sleigh (that’s not a cat by the way, but a vehicle designed to move on snow).
Meanwhile, Breckenridge is where you’ll find the younger, more outgoing, travellers.
Though it is filled with American tourists, it is a town where people actually live. Albeit, a small one. Wednesday’s packed karaoke night at Motherloaded Tavern could be found by walking down the street following the noise.
Breckenridge – or as the locals and regulars call it, “Breck” or “Breckenfridge” because it’s so cold – even has a Spotify playlist for each of its five mountain peaks. Plus, the “Friends On A Powder Day” playlist, which challenges the old saying “no friends a powder day” – meaning when the snow is good you don’t wait for anyone.
Breckenridge Ski Resort “respectfully disagrees”, promoting the belief that a good time is even better with friends by your side.
Fun, food and accommodation: Here are my tips for travelling to Beaver Creek and Breckenridge.
‘I have no idea how to ski’
Of course, the obvious fun around is skiing and snowboarding. If you are as bold as me and head there with no idea how to do either, I couldn’t recommend the lessons more highly.
I’d call myself pretty uncoordinated and I don’t play any sports, but was doing some blue runs after two lessons. At the beginning, I thought my skis would never come out of pizza (if you know, you know).
At Beaver Creek, I had the adventurous and fun (and very committed) Tommy Fahy to show me how it’s done, and at Breckenridge, I had Gail Rudewicz, who has been instructing for more than 30 years.
It is important to note the lessons are not just for newbies; Gail said she has experienced skiers come back to her when they want to do black diamond runs – suited only to expert skiers.
The great part for tourists is that the instructors also act as tour guides on the mountain. I was able to experience and see all kinds of things I would have been too nervous to find alone – including the most picturesque run that wasn’t even on the map.
When you are not on the mountain, another must-do is to simply walk through Breckenridge and Beaver Creek to take it all in. You’ll feel like you’ve been transported back in time.
Make sure you see Breckenridge’s main street when the sun is out to admire the old buildings and signs. But don’t forget to also check it out at night time, when it’s illuminated by gorgeous lights.
While Beaver Creek becomes quiet after dinner, Breckenridge does have some night-life – including karaoke.
Strolling down an otherwise quiet, deserted street, I found all the people were in one bar (Motherloaded Tavern) singing their hearts out. On the left of the crowded space there could have been as many as 100 coats hooked along the wall that people had ditched so they could dance. The most outgoing could be found on top a table in the centre of the room with microphones in hand.
If you prefer to use your downtime on a ski trip to relax in luxury, maybe you would prefer to hit up the day spa at Park Hyatt in Beaver Creek. The relaxation lounge and private treatment rooms for a massage or facial have beautiful views of the trees and snow. If you are getting a treatment, my advice is to allow more time than you think to check out the other facilities at the spa including the aqua sanitas roman bath experience.
What about the food?
If you love cookies, you are in the right place!
Beaver Creek has “Cookie Time” every afternoon where you can get your hands on free freshly baked, warm cookies at 3pm at the bottom of Haymeadow and Centennial Express lifts.
Sweet treats dominate Breckenridge too, with plenty of places in town selling crepes, hot chocolate (with whipped cream, marshmallows and sprinkles), and you guessed it, cookies.
One of the best cookies I have ever had was a warm sourdough chocolate chip cookie from Dynamite Cookies while eating at its sister restaurant Tin Plate Pizza.
If you would like to splurge, check out Allie’s Cabin at Beaver Creek. It’s a whole experience.
This is the restaurant on the mountain only accessible by a snowcat-pulled sleigh (dress warm). Music is played to set the fun mood as you look down the mountain at the lights of the village below fading further into the distance. When you get to the cabin, you swap your shoes for slippers.
And remember what I said about being in the right place if you like cookies? On the menu you can find a cocktail called “Cook time for the adults”.
I also recommend having lunch at one of the more casual places on the mountain while skiing at either resort, even if it is just for the vibes. It can get crowded so you are likely to share tables and get chatting to other skiers.
Accommodation
At Beaver Creek I stayed in The Osprey, which advertises itself as the closest hotel to a chairlift in North America.
Guests can have breakfast at the hotel then walk just a couple of metres to swap their shoes for ski boots and skis at the valet by the back door. They then step straight out on to the snow by the Strawberry Park Express chairlift.
As someone who had never skied before, I needed to head to another chairlift for the easier runs – but the best part is you can keep your skis on and just slide your way over there via a snow-covered bridge.
The Osprey appeared to be a popular choice among families and couples.
At Breckenridge, I stayed at Gravity Haus. While you don’t step straight on to the snow, each room gets a locker by the back door for ski gear and it’s a short walk (and don’t worry, I mean short walk in ski boots) to the base of Peak 9.
At the hotel, you can find a young adventurous crowd remote-working in the common area and hitting the gym (which even has a schedule of group fitness classes). Considering I was in pain just walking after one day of wearing ski boots, the latter is not something I tried out. There is also a restaurant in the hotel called Cabin Juice, which is perfect for breakfast before a big day on the slopes as it opens at 7am.
My final tip is this: If you don’t want the hassle of packing your ski gear (or don’t own any like me) there is a service called Epic Mountain Rentals that will even come to your hotel to deliver and fit your gear.
I also hired a ski jacket, pants, gloves and goggles from Mountain Threads, which offered a delivery and pick-up service.
This writer travelled to Beaver Creek and Breckenridge as a guest of Vail Resorts