As a Kookaburra laughs in the trees high above and the sun begins to set casting a golden glow on the surrounding cliffs and riverbanks, I sit in my kayak letting the beauty that is Australia sink in.
I ask Kym, who runs Canoe Adventures Riverland with his wife Karen, what tourists they usually get and he says mainly from Adelaide – most often doctors and nurses wanting to wind down or people living in the city for a few years who had explored South Australia’s coast and finally decided to head north.
We are paddling along the River Murray (or as those in Victoria and NSW call it, the Murray River) and its creeks near Renmark.
It is about a three-hour drive from Adelaide and less than 20 minutes from the Victorian border.
If I didn’t know any better, I’d think at any moment I might see a croc. It is a typical Australian scene.
In fact, one of the four frequently asked questions on Kym and Karen’s website is, “Are there any crocodiles?”.
In my 24 hours in Renmark, I would go on to see plenty of native birds, kangaroos, a koala and a mob of emus.
There are many moments of silence where all you can hear are the birds. I can see why people with fast-paced, stressful lives head here to relax.
Cathy, a local citrus and grape farmer who runs The Frames luxury accommodation with her husband Rick, describes the area as a “hidden gem”.
The pair have been hard at work meeting with travel agents in Australia and overseas to put the area on the map.
While “the Murray” or “the River” – depending on who you ask – is often associated with camping, which you can certainly do, Cathy and Rick turned their land overlooking the river into three unique luxury lodges in 2016.
Guests can enjoy a private heated pool, an infra-red sauna, massage bed, and a huge shower (with four different taps) within their lodge. They can even have a chef prepare a delicious three-course meal to have in the accommodation.
In my final hours in Renmark, Cathy and Tony, a local boat driver and tour guide for The Frames, take me on a wetland wildlife cruise in a boat specially designed by Rick so guests have a better view of the banks.
You can still see the marks on the trees from when the water level peaked on Boxing Day during last year’s floods. In some regions, water levels were more than two metres higher than usual.
Cathy and Tony wave to everyone we pass on river, later clarifying they don’t know them, it’s just the thing you do.
Cathy explains their accommodation attracts a lot of couples celebrating special milestones and she is often required to get hands-on for proposals – including one time putting fairy lights in the trees at a secluded riverbank and getting the bride-to-be there without having any idea what was going on.
She says their restored 100-year-old classic wooden boat was a favourite for those moments.
Tony tells me the creeks we’re travelling down – where we are manoeuvring around sharp turns and trees – is where boats travel up to 90km/h for the annual Riverland Dinghy Derby – a local tradition since 1981.
I’m in disbelief and immediately make note to watch some videos on YouTube later.
We stop for lunch where we are greeted by Rick, Rob and his dog Pippa. I am in awe as Rob whips up a delicious feast on a portable BBQ on the riverbank.
On my way back to Adelaide, I head to the town of Mannum – also recovering from bad floods in January – to join a tour of the River Murray Dark Sky Reserve.
Three-and-a-half years ago, an area of more than 3200sq km in South Australia was officially certified as an International Dark Sky Reserve, after a rigorous application process. There are only 20 others in the world.
Night sky darkness is measured on a scale of 0 to 22, and the River Murray Dark Sky Reserve measures at 21.9, making it a perfect spot for stargazers.
In fact, Kelly of Juggle House Experiences tells me she knows of at least five avid astronomers who have moved or bought holiday homes in the River Murray Dark Sky Reserve purely because of its starry skies, including one man who built his own private observatory.
She added: “People coming from overseas are absolutely blown away because one-third of the world’s population can’t see the stars living in cities.”
After admiring the stars, I head to stay overnight at Louise and Rufus’ Reedy Creek Retreat, where they have three luxury “glamping” tents on their property just outside the town of Mannum. They only launched their retreat in August last year.
When I heard I was staying in a tent, I could have never expected what I was actually in for.
The huge tents are raised off the ground, have decking, a bathroom, kitchen and airconditioning.
Outside there is a BBQ area for each tent, campfire pit and hammock with river views.
My last stop to finish off the mini road trip was Monarto Safari Park, run by Zoos SA, a not-for-profit conservation charity.
It’s the largest open-range safari experience outside of Africa and has enough room to fit every major zoo in Australia inside it. Only a portion of the park is open to the public.
In 2017, the unique experience called Lion 360 opened where visitors can stand inside a dome cage as keepers feed the lions.
“It’s the first of its kind in Australia and we’re excited that it will allow us to bring an additional 3000 new visitors to Murraylands each year,” Zoos SA chief executive Elaine Bensted said at the time of its opening.
My one tip for visitors is to be aware Monarto is not like other zoos. It can take up to half an hour to walk on a dirt track through the bush to an exhibit. However, there are buses to take you through the park – you just might have to join a queue on busy days.
This writer was a guest of the South Australian Tourism Commission